Sunday, December 28, 2008
Saturday, December 27, 2008
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
For those of you who might make it into the gym while you are on break, here is a workout you can do. Get used to it because we will do this during a practice:
- warm up traverse-length of gym 2X
- ABS drill (pick 4 problems that are hard for you. you have 5 minutes per problem. 5 minutes rest in between problems. this is to mimic an onsight bouldering event. for example you will choose problem 1 and spend 5 minutes working on it. even if you do the problem first try i would like you to do it again. get about 3-4 tries in 5 minutes for the drill. then you rest 5 minutes. then you do problem 2. then rest and do problem 3. then rest. then you do problem 4. you will need a watch or stopwatch.)
- 10 minute rest
- then do the ABS drill again
- rest 5 minutes
- one 4x4
- rest 5 minutes
- one 3x3
- Frenchies on the hang board: jugs and slopers, do at least 2 to 3 Frenchies per set and do 5 sets
- Leg lifts on hang board: jugs, sloper, pockets, mail slot, 10 leg lifts each time, do each hand set 2X
- Circuit work upstairs- 3 sets
- If time: easy top-rope laps to finish off, do at least 4 routes
- see you all on Monday, practice 4:30-7pm
- Happy Holidays!!!
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
BISHOP!!!
Peace out!
Always psyched,
Trower / Captain Chicken Hawk
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Friday, December 19, 2008
On-line registration (www.usaclimbing.org) starts on December 31, 2008 for the youth regional competitions. All competitors planning to compete at nationals must register on-line (Rule 15.1.1) between December 31, 2008 @ 10:00 AM and January 14, 2009 @ 11:59 PM.
SCS Open/Citizen National Championships - will be held at the Momentum Climbing Gym in Salt Lake City, UT, January 24-25, 2009. This event will be held in conjunction with the Outdoor retailers show.
ABS 10 National Championships – will be held at The SPOT Gym in Boulder, Colorado February 13-15, 2009. All registrations for the ABS 10 Series Regional Competitions will be done online at www.usaclimbing.org. Registration will begin on December 31, 2008 and it will close on January 14, 2009
.
Thursday, December 11, 2008
"Alpine climbers need maximum power from both mind and body. They train the mind to increase the awareness and grit, and the body to augment strength and endurance. The goal of physical training for alpine climbing can be summed up in one phrase: to make yourself as indestructible as possible. The harder you are to kill, the longer you will last in the mountains." -Twight from Extreme Alpinism
Classic, yet again.
so here is the official time frame for team picture.since scoring always takes about an hour, we will be taking the pictures after 2nd session and before awards.climbing for second session ends at 4pm. so after 2nd session all vertical world team members will head over to the hammerquist studio for the team shots. i will have access to the vertical world van to take some kids (about 10) over there if their parents are not here or something.
WE WILL BE TAKING THE TEAM PHOTO BETWEEN 4-5PM AT THE HAMMERQUIST STUDIO. the studio is about 2 blocks from the redmond gym.all team members please wear their team shirts or sweatshirts or something.the address is 15230 ne 92nd st.redmond, wa 98052then when we are done we will make it back to the gym for awards. awards will not be done until our team is back. there are prizes at this comp so you may want to show up for the awards.i realize that some kids will not be able to make this time. but this is the only time when the majority of the team will be available.thanks and if you have any question or problems, get back to me asap.
Tyson
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
I would like it if everyone would get a pair of black pants or shorts that they like to climb in. i would like to get them printed with the team logo like i did a couple years ago.i was thinking something like this for the girls
http://store.americanapparel.net/2302.html.
they are cotton and easy to print on. cotton or cotton spandex is super easy to print on. polyester is harder to print on.for the boys, pretty much some black climbing shorts or pants are a good idea. here is something that you can either use as pants or cut into shorts. http://store.americanapparel.net/5450.html
you get the idea.i by no means am requiring this, however i think it would look good and at least this way you get a chance to choose something you like and you get to make sure they fit. i would like to get these done before regionals. so the sooner you get them to me the better.
Friday, December 5, 2008
Kale is really excited to be competing again tomorrow, which will be an isolation format (I am not sure if it is only one climb or more - I should probably be at the meeting).
Victoria had a Killer day! She flashed her first climb and about 6 of her competitors took falls (Vic is climbing women's Open category against some of the world's top women climbers - the ones you see in the magazines). She was first to climb her second climb and she made it one hold from the end - it was spectacular. Before we left the gym one woman had flashed it and another had fallen less than halfway up. We are assuming Vic has made it to semis tomorrow but it won't be confirmed until later tonight because the climbing wont be over until after 9pm. Iso closes at 7:30 tomorrow morning and the day will not be as long as today. I think we will all sleep well tonight.
Good night, Katie
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Haterade

You know what? You guys all have a drinking problem. I can tell. And I know what you're drinking, too. It's haterade.
I've been noticing an increasing amount of hate amounting recently during team, and this is very unhealthy. You must embrace the chicken wing, not hate on it! I believe the chicken wing is the most helpful technique available to the intermediate climber. It builds sideways lock-off power and makes you look super cool. All the cool climbers are doing it. Who do you think you are, anyways, climbing with straight arms like some sort of scarecrow ape monster? If you knew what was good for you, you would stick those elbows out with pride! In fact, why don't you go buy the chicken wing elbow guard to appear even more legit among your fellow climbers. This will come in use when you develop the skills to use the elbow hook. This move is not only useful on almost every boulder problem or route, but also will impress your peers even more than the dreaded figure four!
And for another thing, dead hangs should not be done with straight arms at least one arm must be partially bent (bonus points for two). It makes you look sick hardcore and all the other gym rats will definitely be jealous. In fact, all exercises on the systems, campus board, and hangboard should never be done with arms straight. Using your skeletal system is a weakness! Rely instead on the beastly muscles that you will develop from constantly climbing with a chicken wing. In fact, let's face it: right now you're not a beast (comme moi), but by using my patented chicken wing climbing technique videos, you will be in a short matter of time. Other techniques cower in awe of the chicken wing! With my easy twelve step program (only $39.99!!!), you'll be on the way to chicken wing stardom in no time. Soon you will have the arms and shoulders of the hulk! Small holds become increasingly good as your elbows rise! Even Chris Sharma has endorsed this program,"Uhh...yeah. Sick." IS THAT NOT PROOF ENOUGH?! So, my dear friends, get off your asses and leave the comfort of climbing with your straight-armed, uptight friends. Come to the accepting and more hardcore camp of the chicken wing! Your success is waiting!
So, kids, remember not to hate on others...UNLESS THEY'RE WRONG! So let's all embrace the chicken wing and laugh at the fools who are ignorant of it.
Get Psyched
Captain Chicken Hawk (aka Henery Hawk)
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
There Are No Shortcuts
BY MARK TWIGHT
The following paragraph is excerpted from John Jesse's remarkable book titled “Wrestling Physical Conditioning Encyclopedia, published by The Athletic Press, Pasadena, CA, in 1974.
The writer would like to conclude with a personal message to wrestlers and coaches alike. It is taken from a talk given in 1964 to coaches at the National Collegiate Track Clinic and quoted many times by authorities throughout the world:
“There is no shortcut to strength development, as there is none for the development of skill, agility or endurance in an athlete. No amount of fancy gimmicks or equipment or adoption of alleged time-saving ‘fads' will substitute for a long term program of hard work, that is required to develop the quality of strength needed by an athlete for optimum performance in his specialty. Greater progress in track and field during the past 15 years has been the result of harder work by the athletes, not by resorting to shortcuts and less work.”
If the day's workout prescribes hard work (as opposed to recovery or "conversational" intensity) and you can read a magazine, or talk, or take a sip of your favorite sports drink, or recognize it's your phone that's ringing, or if you're not feeling dizzy, then you are not working hard. Avoiding hard work isn't wrong but it should not be confused with embracing effort, mouth wide open and giving it a bit of tongue ... "
Get psyched for some hard work on Wednesday.
Signed, your coach.
Monday, November 3, 2008
In an effort to update the Vertical World Team Website, Tyson would like you to answer the questions listed below. Please email your responses to Denise at: denijoe@comcast.net .
1. how much time do you spend on training for competition and how much time are you climbing for fun? or is this the same to you?
2. when does climbing get in the way of your daily life? or does daily life get in the way of your climbing?
3. what other types of sports do you participate in? and no, video games are not a sport.
4. how many chores do you do around the house to help pay for the ridiculous amount of climbing shoes you go through in a season?
5. when you don't feel like running drills, what is the best way to make them fun for yourself?
Probably the best way to do this is to copy and paste the questions with your answers onto an email to Denise.
Thanks, see you at practice.
-Your Coach
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Soup Night!
Monday, October 27, 2008
Eulogy for the Katanas
your life was fulfilling,
full of features, backsteps and toeing
and though you have reached the finish
because the mold went squish
and the buckles went kaplish
the memories from the past
will not be the last
of any pair of katanas
because maddy knows
these shoes are the bomb.com
hmm...not the best poem i've ever written. but these great shoes deserve to be recognized for all of their glory and greatness...
Sunday, October 26, 2008
RIP Katanas
The Damage:
(Get Psyched for Mourning!)
Trower
blacklight comp
- kale did a 470 after trying it a bajillion times.
- maddy went back to a climb after failing the first couple times. and she got it. yay!
- lucas gave me some beta. and i'm sure he did other things too, but i can't recall what those are at the moment.
- emily had picked her 5 routes before the comp even started. this should definitely be applauded.
- bean was sick strong! i watched him go from a 160-ish route to a 270-ish route. whoo hoo!!
- and even though he isn't really on the team, bryce climbed pretty well too. he took a huge fall and landed 1/2 way on the mat, but then he got up. and that is important. getting up after falling. mentally or physically. yeah, that's right.
oh yeah. another big time accomplishment.
JOE CAME!
and even though he "caught" lucas and i "being rebellious" even though i "should know better" because i have been "on team for awhile" (he was jealous of my awesome white shirt!) and knowing him there will be something for us "to do on monday" i don't really care. see my good attitude towards punishment?
note: wearing a shirt more then the allotted time per week (1) [lucas], unless for highly scientific reasons [kale], should result in some sort of team punishment.
also, anyone who further mentions a glowing tissue will personally get a punch in the face by this author.
-sofia davis grellner-
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
The Epic Tale of the Wednesday Team
So, team got off to a perfect start after I showed up about 13 minutes late (I took a nap and didn't wake up on time). Thankfully, our team is pretty awesome and took the initiative to start the warm up on their own. Yey! Speed would have gone well if I hadn't made the critical oversight of assuming that Emily can speed belay (she can't). There was so much slack in the rope that it started to wrap around Sorrel's leg...as I discovered after I was lowered (Me, Kale, and Bean were climbing at the same time). AAAH! Someone needs to teach her to belay faster. Sofi and I belayed bean for the rest of the speed. Projecting was pretty ridiculous. However, I *finally* stuck that one move and the ones after it. Sofi almost got the last move. Systems were both painful and awesome. And too easy. But still super cool.
Anway, that was practice.
EDGEWORKS SATURDAY! It will be good.
Get psyched!
Trower
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
· Warm up full gym traverse there and back
· Speed climbing 2X2
· Bouldering projects (30 min)
· Finger workout on finger board or systems blocks
One handed dead hangs each hand x3
Two handed dead hangs x3
Closed crimp dead hangs x3
Sloper dead hangs x3
Friday, October 17, 2008
ATTENTION!!!!
When: tomorrow night
Time: 7-9pm
Why I'm Telling You This: The school needs volunteer belayers....i'm going to help, and i'm pretty sure kale and katie are too. so if you want to come help belay, that would be much appreciated. if there are too many belayers and not enough kids, we can just climb.
=]
Thursday, October 16, 2008
the poet who wrote a poetical poem
of the victims of joe
they try to be cool
but it's his rule
in the gym
where the air is chalky & grim
and the music rocks
your non-existent climber socks
this is how i feel.
my inner bard must be showing...
w/out the harp of course.
=]
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
ALWAYS CHECK YOUR KNOT!
ALWAYS CHECK YOUR KNOT AND YOUR PARTNER'S KNOT!
Sunday, October 12, 2008
Videos from Open Finals
V is the first to send women's problem two
Johnny G dances up men's problem two
Johnny G shows men's problem three who's boss (it's him).
Get Psyched!
Trower
Saturday, October 11, 2008
The Circuit - An Epic Comp
Get psyched!
Trower
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
uniforms
if you want them to be a surprise, stop reading here because i'm going to explain them.
THEY LOOK THE SAME AS LAST YEAR.
except the logos are on the front, not the side.
and the sweatshirts are a zip-up hoodie.
and maddy and i got red tank tops. but v said the white ones are cooler...????
and the girl shirts are v-necks...(good or bad?)
so...yup.
Monday, October 6, 2008
Saturday, October 4, 2008
Friday, October 3, 2008
9am - doors open, women's registration begins
9:45am - rules for women
10am-1pm - women climb
11am - men's registration begins
12:45pm - rules for men
1pm-4pm - men climb
5pm - Finals begin! (on NEW WALL!)
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Holy shit...... from climbing.com
![]() James Pearson rehearsing slab moves that may be as hard as 5.14 on his new route The Walk of Life on the North Devon coast in England. The route is the first in the world to be given the E12 grade. Courtesy of Tnf.typepad.com. |
The hardest traditional route in the world may be a slab climb. The young English climber James Pearson has climbed The Walk of Life (E12 7a) on a steep slab on the North Devon coast in southwest England. At this grade, the route must include hard 5.14 climbing with death-fall potential.
According to a report at Climbmagazine.com in the U.K., Pearson’s new route begins with nearly 50 feet of very serious climbing above the boulders at the base of Dyer’s Lookout—the “most mentally difficult and terrifying piece of climbing he has done.”
After placing some small gear, Pearson continued on an existing route, Dyer Straits (E8 6b), established by Ian Vickers with preplaced pitons and other gear. Pearson removed all of the pitons and placed gear on the lead for the 90-foot-plus upper wall. During an earlier attempt, he fell off this upper section as rain began to fall and took a 50-footer onto a Wild Country Zero #3, a tiny microcam. Dave Brown, who was filming Pearson for the upcoming film "Committed, Vol. 2," said, "I stripped the route for him that day, and the microcam that held the fall was in a shocking placement, and it was mangled and bent." On the successful lead, rain fell again but Pearson waited out the brief shower at a decent rest on the upper wall, and then continued when the rain had passed.
![]() Pearson midway on The Walk of Life. Courtesy of Hotaches.blogspotcom, reproduced with permission. |
![]() Pearson working the route above the waves on the 45-meter face of Dyer's Lookout. Courtesy of Hotaches.blogspotcom, reproduced with permission. |
“The Walk of Life pushed me further and made me dig deeper than any other route I’ve climbed before,” Pearson told Climb magazine. “The route is…far harder than any other route I’ve tried.”
Pearson is no stranger to hard and dangerous routes. He has repeated many serious headpoints in Britain and also established The Promise (E10 7a) and The Groove (E10 7b). He was the first person to flash a V13 boulder problem, a feat he has repeated a couple of times since.
No climb in the world has previously been graded E12. Dave MacLeod’s Rhapsody (E11 7a) in Scotland was the first E11, and has been repeated twice. Last summer MacLeod established a new route, the Echo Wall, on Ben Nevis in Scotland, and said it was harder and scarier than Rhapsody; however, MacLeod did not grade the route.
James Pearson. Courtesy of Tnf.typepad.com. |
Adding to the difficulties of Pearson’s new route is the nature of the rock, a type known as culm that’s unique to North Devon sea cliffs. It looks somewhat like sandstone, and can be loose and friable. The UKClimbing.com database for Dyer’s Lookout summarizes, “Possibly not going to be there long, so climb it while you can. It may be a good idea to take some pegs with you. And maybe a hammer. Don't bang too hard though.”
Date of Ascent: September 29, 2008
Monday, September 29, 2008
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Weaksauce

...or, alternately, my performance at the Summer Slam
Anyway, it was a great comp despite my ridiculous amounts of suckage. There were a lot of people there and the vibe was very positive. The usual VW supsects were there (except for us, haha) along with a bunch of other random climbers. This was Lucas's first comp ever (!) and a sweet first comp at that. The bouldering edged on lame, although the roped routes were pretty sweet.
Hopefully the Circuit will go better for me...
Get Psyched
Trower
This is the first installment of the Vertical World Youth Climbing newsletter. You will be receiving monthly updates on what the Climbing Team has been up to, what we will be doing, the latest competition standings, and our upcoming events.
This newsletter will also have news and updates on all our Youth Climbing Programs. Vertical World offers a wide variety of climbing programs for all ages and abilities. You may have seen us in the gym or out at the crags, but either way, please know we are out there spreading the word about climbing and competition in the community. We are growing the next generation of hardcore and committed climbers, indoors and out. This newsletter is for you, and it's from us.
The team competes throughout the country in the USA Climbing/ABS series of competitive indoor rock climbing competitions. Over the past 6 years the Vertical World Climbing Team has developed a handful of National Champions, a World Championship Podium, and around 30 Team Members named to the USA National Climbing Team in the discipline of either Sport, Bouldering or Speed Climbing. The team is proud to have also placed 1st, 2nd or 3rd in the past 5 years in the National Team Competition.
Tyson Schoene has three assistant coaches on the team. Sydney McNair coaches out of the Everett gym, Joe Holmes out of the Kitsap gym, and Adam Brossard out of Redmond. Without their help, the team would not be what it is today.
The team trains 5 days a week from September through July for competitions ranging from local events to national events. Those that finish well enough to make the USA National Team will then move on to compete at the Junior World Championships against the top climbers from other countries in their age categories.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
comp tomorrow
unless someone suddenly is able to give me a ride, i can't go.
possible drivers:
maddy (but unless you get over your fear of ferries...this is a no)
my mom (no)
joe (psshh...yeah right. =])
katie (kale said that is also a no)
lucas(i'm guessing that you are a no too, seeing that you needed a ride)
hmm...
alrighty then.
i guess the comp will have to leave w/out the awesome bremerton team.
well...this blog thing is cool.
oh, and i can climb on sunday.
so call me.
or facebook me.
(by the way, that is such a stalker site!)
short bus
=]
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
ABS SCHEDULE
10/11/08
Local: Circuit - Portland, OR
10/25/08
Local: Edgeworks - Tacoma, WA
11/08/08
Local: ClubSport - Tigard, OR
11/15/08
Local: Rogue - Medford, OR
coming soon
11/15/08
Local: Cassel Rock - Anchorage, AK
coming soon
11/29/08
Local: Stoneworks - Beaverton, OR
12/06/08
Local: Alaska Rock - Anchorage, AK
12/13/08
Local: Vertical World - Redmond, WA
12/13/08
Local: Inclimb - Bend, OR
coming soon
01/17-18/09
Regional: Circuit - Portland, OR
Also, the sign up for ABS/SCS is out. so please get registered asap.
Here are the links:
https://thriva.activenetwork.com/Reg4/(S(qdthel55fhrhrc4533rat055))/Form.aspx?regkey=RpYOYPxE378wNjTYCkFkMw%3d%3d
So here are a couple key points you need to remember
1) make sure you register under our team name, vertical world climbing team.
2) also make sure you register for the pacnw regional.
If you have questions please get back to me.
Tyson and I would love for everyone possible to attend the first event on October 11th at the Circuit Gym in Portland. This is a huge event and it is really fun. If you cannot make it please let me know. I think most of you should make it to the Edgeworks comp on october 25th. This way you get your 2 out of the way and automatically qualify for the regional to be held on jan 17th in Portland. The Clubsport event is up to you, November 8th in Tigard, Oregon. It should be fun. Tyson will not be there as he is getting married that day. The Medford comp is really far away, enough said. So is the Alaska one. The Stoneworks comp in Beaverton is Thanksgiving weekend. You can go if you want. Please let me know if you are going. The next, Alaska one...well, it's in Alaska. The Vertical World Redmond comp is on December 13th. I would love for everyone to be there for that one too. Tyson is also planning on having the team picture taken at this event, so please show up. Please keep me posted on the comps that you and your family are planning on attending.
First ABS Comp at the Circuit

That aside, remember to sign up for the first ABS comp of the year at The Circuit (register before Oct. fifth for a comp shirt)! Chicks are 10am - 1pm and dudes are 1pm - 4pm. Sign up here and find the waiver here. They have a new roof and, as always, the totally awesome hanging boulder. Be there!
Also, it kind of sucks being the only team member in the gym on non-team days. We should somehow arrange something in some way that some people can post some days that the would be in the gym sometime climbing something (that sentence was entirely intentional). Anywho, when do you guys come in during the week? Bouldering the same crap over and over gets boring.
Get psyched!
Trower
Monday, September 22, 2008
Seattle VW Back to School Slam
This is a for fun competition and barbecue on thursday night september 25th.
There are plenty of categories and prizes. This is a ropes and bouldering comp.
There is a barbecue and beer for the parents.
This is a great opportunity to get the competition season underway in a non-stress have fun with the team type of way. It will also give the perfect opportunity for the new team members to meet everyone and get psyched for the season.
The comp is at the seattle gym and starts at 6pm. Call the seattle gym 206.283.4497 to register. the cost is $25. I would love it if all team members made it to this if possible. Questions, please talk to me.
Team Uniforms
We are going simple this year, with a sleevless T and a regular T and a long sleeve T, and a hooded sweatshirt. We are also getting bags made by asana with our logo on it. The only thing that is required is a team shirt and sweatshirt, the rest is optional. As soon as Tyson gets them to me I will have prices for you asap. but like usual, its pretty cheap.
Also, if parents want team shirts, Tyson will order them with the kids order. please get me your adult size or female size. Tyson is limiting parents to t-shirts or long sleeve shirts. let me know.
Signed, Your Coach.
OK all you Kitsap Vertical World Climbing Team Members, this is your blog to post anything you want about climbing, the team, comps, workouts, etc. Basically, if it has to do with climbing, this is the place to blog about it. We will also use this blog to post workouts, comp schedules, etc.
Remember, blog smarter, not harder.












