KitsapVerticalWorldClimbingTeam

2009-05-14T22:34:00.000-07:00

Attention all regional championship climbers:
From Coach Tyson:

some of you are having a hard time finding the schedule for saturday. scroll down on the regional page of the usac website or just look below.
please make sure you show up in time for iso.
thanks
tyson

UPCOMING COMPETITION: PNW Regional Championship

Please check in at the South Entrance (follow yellow signage)
when: Saturday May 16th
where: ClubSport
address: 18120 SW Lower Boones Ferry Road | Tigard | OR | 97224
phone: 503.968.4500
format: ON-SIGHT
registration deadline Wednesday May 13th 10:59pm PT/11:59pm MT
sessions -

Session 1 Categories FYD, MYC, FYB, MYB, MYA
7:30am iso opens
8:15am judges meeting
8:30am iso closes & open to 1st round spectators
8:45am competitor route preview
9:00am climbing begins
9:15am speed climbing begins
11:15am end of climbing for 1st session

Session 2 Categories MYD, FYC, FYA, FJR, MJR
9:45am iso opens
10:45am iso closes & open to 2nd round spectators
11:00am competitor route preview
11:15am climbing begins
11:30am speed climbing begins
1:00pm end of climbing for 2nd session & GYM CLOSES for pre-finals preparations

Finals for all Categories -- Top Ten Climbers from each category
2:00pm iso opens for finals
2:45pm judges meeting
3:00pm iso closes & open to finals round spectators
3:15pm competitor route preview
3:30pm climbing begins
5:00pm end of finals
5:30pm/6:00pm awards and divisional invitations (subject to change)

Hotmail® goes with you. Get it on your BlackBerry or iPhone.

Pain Box

2009-04-22T13:38:00.000-07:00

I thought this applied perfectly to climbing

“There is a certain amount of pain that we must experience in life. There is no escaping it. Life just isn’t easy and there is a certain amount of suffering that we will all have to endure,” local UNLV philosophy professor explains to me on a climbing trip to Mount Charleston.
He said, “This is the only theory I’ve come up with that is really useful.”

“Imagine the amount of pain you will experience contained in a box. You can’t escape the pain but you can decide which form of pain you want to experience. You must either experience the pain of failure or the pain of working hard towards goals. Life comes down to a deciding the ratio of hard work to failure.

My students often choose laziness over failure because they have tried before and failed and in some ways it is easier not to even try because there is at least an excuse for sub par performance. If they try to do math and still fail they have acknowledged that it was worth their time to pursue and have proven to themselves that they are not capable. It’s easier to dismiss math as not important and not cool because no one sees you fail.
Another teacher at the school is notorious for assigning copious amounts of homework to prepare students for AP government test. When students were complaining about it, I tried to teach them the pain box theory and ask them if they would rather experience the pain of writing papers and reading now or the pain of failing the AP test later.

Teachers often make the decision to suffer in different ways. If I suffer on the weekends to plan good lessons class goes well and students are successful. If I have fun or relax and plan boring lessons I suffer when students are in the classroom. Clearly I can’t spend all of my free time planning amazing lessons so the ratio of suffering is somewhere in between.
The other part of the theory is that as you become more successful it takes exponentially increasing amounts of effort to decrease the suffering caused by failure. As you become very nearly perfect at an activity it is very difficult to improve without expending huge amounts of energy.

As usual this applies perfectly to cycling. In a race you decide if you want to suffer chasing down a break or attacking. You decide if you want push through the pain on the five mile hill. In the final sprint you decide just how much you can make your legs burn and how many risks you are willing to take. The winners are those who suffer the most while they train and on the race course. Winning brings happiness but as you advance it becomes more an more difficult to improve. Winning the Tour de France takes almost complete devotion to the hard work side of the pain box. Most people do not have the drive to do this.
In my own cycling career I’ve decided not to focus on success and downplayed the pain of failure by making it less important. My excuse is that I stayed late to help my kids and am usually too exhausted to do anything but base pace after work. And the pain of sprinting to not get last seems less than the pain of watching my kids fail and knowing there was something I could have done to fix it.

Inspired Bicycles - Danny MacAskill April 2009

2009-04-22T09:42:00.001-07:00

OK, so this has nothing to do with climbing. I just thought it was pretty cool. Enjoy...and then go climbing.

2009-04-20T22:20:00.000-07:00

Here is the link for the edgeworks comp this weekend in tacoma. please register. it is a huge favor to those running the event when people register before hand.
http://edgeworksclimbing.com/

also, i will have the hotel info for nationals to you soon. and if you havent booked a room for the divisional, please do so. i sent the info out a little while ago.

just to confirm, divisionals is in sacramento and the national is in utah.

thanks
tyson

2009-04-20T21:51:00.001-07:00

One more thing:

Hi, All.
I wanted to bring up an issue that has been ongoing this season. I have come across, during the check-in process that there are quite a few non-members/new climbers that have no idea what is expected at check-in or the event process itself. I have had several parents become upset at the fact that they were not made aware of the gym waiver and/or the non-member forms w/ a $5.00 fee submission aside from already paying the gym registration fee ($35/$40). Other times, minor-aged climbers attend without parents and do not realize the need for parental signatures or putting out the non-member $5 fee.

I am looking to you, the coaches to educate and follow up with climbers and families prior to a competition. Send them to the PNW web page or have them email me for info. I can have business cards made up if needed...whatever it takes. I can send out alerts a week prior to an event as a reminder. Two day alert can also work. What can I do to help make registration smoother during check-in? Bug you to make sure your climbers and their families know the information. What can you do to help me?...make sure your climbers are prepared and registered with forms signed by parents, front and back and pay the required fees.

Thanks for listening. As always , please do not hesitate to contact me with any questions, concerns or suggestions. Have a great day!

Emmy
______________________________________
Emmy Surma & Leslie Copper
USAC Regional Coordinators: Pacific Northwest
USAC PNW site: http://usaclimbing.net/regional/regional_news.cfm?region=pnw

2009-04-20T21:31:00.001-07:00

Hey Everyone, please check this:

Hi, All.
This week during your team practice(s), please mention to families to check the USAC site for their climber's(s') 3-local comp requirement status prior to Regionals. Edgeworks is the final local comp and it's not too late for them to have their climber(s) attend to fulfill the 3rd local requirement. Send them my way if they have any questions. Thanks.

Emmy
______________________________________
Emmy Surma
USAC Regional Coordinator: Pacific Northwest
USAC PNW site: http://usaclimbing.net/regional/regional_news.cfm?region=pnw

2009-03-24T16:50:00.000-07:00

Seattle VW Comp Info.

so here is what the schedule is looking like for our comp on april 4th.
please check the times so you show up at the right time.
also note that the iso times are set in stone but the start times are subject to change cuz we dont know how many people are coming.
thanks
tyson

2009 USAC vertical world onsite contest schedule

please note iso times are set in stone, but start times are an approximation.

time

8:30am iso opens for first session (MYD, FYC, FYB, FYA, MJunior)

9:15am judges meeting

9:30am iso closes

9:35am competitors meeting

9:45am route preview begins

10am climbing begins for first session

11am iso opens for second session (FYD, MYC, MYB, MYA, FJunior)

12pm iso closes for second session

12:05pm competitors meeting

12:20pm first session ends

12:25pm route preview for second session

12:48pm climbing begins for second session

2:33pm climbing ends for second session

3:15pm awards

2009-02-06T18:15:00.000-08:00

ABS NATIONALS (or...Trower and Emily, read this)

here is the link to this coming weekend full nationals schedule. please go over this and make sure you are positive about the times of where you need to be. do not be late for anything.
here is also the youth running order, please check it out.
http://www.absnationals.org/08/details/index.htm

here is the format for the finals at nationals.

For the last two years, we have had three problems per category during the Finals round. This year, we will be doing four Finals problems per category with four – minute climbing periods. There will be a 30 second transition time between climbing and rest periods. In a nutshell, the climbers’ Final round will look like this:
- 4 minute climbing period - 30 second transition
- 4 minute rest period - 30 second transition
- 4 minute climbing period - 30 second transition
- 4 minute rest period - 30 second transition
- 4 minute climbing period - 30 second transition
- 4 minute rest period -30 second transition
- 4 minute climbing period

2009-01-01T13:07:00.000-08:00

Registration for Regionals- DO IT!

and now, a word from Tyson:

here is a note from matt at the circuit. please remember to register for regionals asap. this is not something to slack on. you will not be able to register the day of the comp.
do this now.
the circuit is doing something unheard of and offering refunds to those who pay the $90 and do not make it to nationals. so please do not let the cost of the event stop you from attending. we have been training for this all fall and winter lets go out and give it our best.
please read the below note from matt,thanks
tyson

First off, I would like to remind all of you that we are still trying to go all out for a great comp!

Pricing is the big question on everybody's mind, so lets get right to it. I have spent hours on the phone with the USAC over the past two weeks trying to unravel the $90 fee. Unfortunately, their price to register for Regionals remains at $90. Youth climbers have to register through USAC at $90 if you want to move on to Nationals. Registration is supposed to start tomorrow morning, but it looks like they have started already for some reason. See here: http://www.usaclimbing.net/home.cfm

If youth climbers are not worried about going to Nationals, the entry fee for the comp will be $60. The price for adults is $60 as well.

HERE'S THE BEST PART! PLEASE HAVE ALL CLIMBERS INTERESTED IN NATIONALS SIGN UP THROUGH THE USAC AT $90. IF THEY DON'T QUALIFY FOR NATIONALS, THE CIRCUIT WILL GIVE THEM $30 BACK. THAT'S RIGHT, ONLY CLIMBERS WHO MAKE IT TO NATIONALS END UP PAYING $90.

I DON'T WANT ANY COACH TELLING THEIR CLIMBERS THAT THEY "DO HAVE" OR "DON'T HAVE" A SHOT AT NATIONALS. IF THE CLIMBER WANTS TO TRY, THEY SHOULD TRY. PERIOD. PLEASE NEVER JUDGE THEM, AND ALWAYS LET THEIR EFFORT SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES. I DO NOT AGREE WITH THE USAC BASICALLY SAYING THAT YOU NEED TO HAVE A SHOT AT NATIONALS TO BE A PART OF THEIR ORGANIZATION. HOW RIDICULOUS IS THAT?

Anyways, I'm pretty much sick and tired of dealing with the USAC, and want to put all my efforts into giving the Pacific Northwest climbers ONE HELL OF A COMP!

Regionals will be all day, one-day event, with the approximate schedule as follows (definitely subject to change):

Youth Onsight Round One: 9am-1pm (FD,MD,FC,MB,FA,FJr)
Youth Onsight Round Two: 1pm-5pm (MC,FB,MA,MJr)
Adult/Open Redpoint: 11am-2pm (Beg,Int,Adv,Masters,Open)
Adult/Open Onsight Finals: 5pm!

I think we're probably the first gym to try a Redpoint during an Onsight. Should be exciting! This comp is definitely for spectators and parents as well as climbers. Also, please check the Circuit website, www.thecircuitgym.com, whenever you need to know what is going on.

I'll figure out the isolation times this Friday and email everyone again. I'll also have the $60 registration form online and in your email on Friday.

Please pass this on to other coaches or interested people. And let me know if you have any questions or feedback.

Oh, one more important decision needs all of your input. Should we call the comp "USAC Bailout" Comp or "Money Back Guarantee" comp?

Thanks for your support everybody. Unlike some organizations, we really do appreciate it!

Matt
Matt Slayton - Operations Manager & Team Head Coach

The Circuit Bouldering Gym
Mon-Sat 11-11 & Sun 11-7
6050C SW Macadam Ave.
Portland, OR 97239

www.thecircuitgym.com
(503) 246-5111

2008-12-28T19:30:00.000-08:00

MONDAY PRACTICE

Since I did not hear back from everyone, I am going to have practice at the regular time tomorrow. 4:30 to 7PM. See everyone then.

Thanks,
Your Coach

2008-12-27T10:28:00.000-08:00

Just a Thought:

Give me your thoughts on a Monday practice (December 29) during the day. I was thinking noon. I need everyone to let me know if this works or not. Once I hear back from everyone I will let you know by Sunday afternoon.

Thanks.
-Your Coach

2008-12-24T10:16:00.000-08:00

Holiday Workout

For those of you who might make it into the gym while you are on break, here is a workout you can do. Get used to it because we will do this during a practice:

warm up traverse-length of gym 2X
ABS drill (pick 4 problems that are hard for you. you have 5 minutes per problem. 5 minutes rest in between problems. this is to mimic an onsight bouldering event. for example you will choose problem 1 and spend 5 minutes working on it. even if you do the problem first try i would like you to do it again. get about 3-4 tries in 5 minutes for the drill. then you rest 5 minutes. then you do problem 2. then rest and do problem 3. then rest. then you do problem 4. you will need a watch or stopwatch.)
10 minute rest
then do the ABS drill again
rest 5 minutes
one 4x4
rest 5 minutes
one 3x3
Frenchies on the hang board: jugs and slopers, do at least 2 to 3 Frenchies per set and do 5 sets
Leg lifts on hang board: jugs, sloper, pockets, mail slot, 10 leg lifts each time, do each hand set 2X
Circuit work upstairs- 3 sets
If time: easy top-rope laps to finish off, do at least 4 routes
see you all on Monday, practice 4:30-7pm
Happy Holidays!!!

BISHOP!!!

2008-12-23T19:58:00.001-08:00

Hey kiddies, I have an awesome oppurtunity for y'all. I'm heading down to Bishop with my sister and some other folks during part of my Spring Break (March 28 through April 5, counting weekends). If any of you haven't heard about Bishop, its pretty darn sweet. Just google it to see what you're in for. So the deal is, I've been talking with Rebekah and we think it would be awesometastic if we could get some team kids from all gyms down at the same time in Bishop. It would also be great to get other climbers we know in on the trip (River, B-rizzle, etc.). If you are a minor/infant/small annoying child, then please inform your parents of this oppurtunity! The trip is much more likely to go if we have more adults coming. If you are interested, please contact me or Rebekah about this trip. We have a lot of time to plan and it would be sweet if a bunch of us could organize this.

Peace out!

Always psyched,

Trower / Captain Chicken Hawk

2008-12-21T22:06:00.000-08:00

PRACTICE THIS MONDAY

HEY ALL, I AM 99.99% SURE THAT WE WILL NOT BE HAVING PRACTICE MONDAY. CALL IT A SNOW DAY.

HAVE FUN IN ALL THAT SNOW. I WILL.

-YOUR COACH

2008-12-19T19:10:00.000-08:00

Regional Registration Information

On-line registration (www.usaclimbing.org) starts on December 31, 2008 for the youth regional competitions. All competitors planning to compete at nationals must register on-line (Rule 15.1.1) between December 31, 2008 @ 10:00 AM and January 14, 2009 @ 11:59 PM.

SCS Open/Citizen National Championships - will be held at the Momentum Climbing Gym in Salt Lake City, UT, January 24-25, 2009. This event will be held in conjunction with the Outdoor retailers show.

ABS 10 National Championships – will be held at The SPOT Gym in Boulder, Colorado February 13-15, 2009. All registrations for the ABS 10 Series Regional Competitions will be done online at www.usaclimbing.org. Registration will begin on December 31, 2008 and it will close on January 14, 2009

.

2008-12-11T17:50:00.000-08:00

And In the "Yet Another Quote From Mark Twight" Genre:

"Alpine climbers need maximum power from both mind and body. They train the mind to increase the awareness and grit, and the body to augment strength and endurance. The goal of physical training for alpine climbing can be summed up in one phrase: to make yourself as indestructible as possible. The harder you are to kill, the longer you will last in the mountains." -Twight from Extreme Alpinism

Classic, yet again.

2008-12-11T17:42:00.000-08:00

And In the "Even More From Tyson" Genre

(and yes, correct grammar, spelling and capitalization is still optional):

so here is the official time frame for team picture.since scoring always takes about an hour, we will be taking the pictures after 2nd session and before awards.climbing for second session ends at 4pm. so after 2nd session all vertical world team members will head over to the hammerquist studio for the team shots. i will have access to the vertical world van to take some kids (about 10) over there if their parents are not here or something.

WE WILL BE TAKING THE TEAM PHOTO BETWEEN 4-5PM AT THE HAMMERQUIST STUDIO. the studio is about 2 blocks from the redmond gym.all team members please wear their team shirts or sweatshirts or something.the address is 15230 ne 92nd st.redmond, wa 98052then when we are done we will make it back to the gym for awards. awards will not be done until our team is back. there are prizes at this comp so you may want to show up for the awards.i realize that some kids will not be able to make this time. but this is the only time when the majority of the team will be available.thanks and if you have any question or problems, get back to me asap.

Tyson

2008-12-10T21:15:00.000-08:00

A Message From Tyson:

I would like it if everyone would get a pair of black pants or shorts that they like to climb in. i would like to get them printed with the team logo like i did a couple years ago.i was thinking something like this for the girls
http://store.americanapparel.net/2302.html.
they are cotton and easy to print on. cotton or cotton spandex is super easy to print on. polyester is harder to print on.for the boys, pretty much some black climbing shorts or pants are a good idea. here is something that you can either use as pants or cut into shorts. http://store.americanapparel.net/5450.html

you get the idea.i by no means am requiring this, however i think it would look good and at least this way you get a chance to choose something you like and you get to make sure they fit. i would like to get these done before regionals. so the sooner you get them to me the better.

2008-12-05T18:27:00.000-08:00

CONTINENTALS DAY 1 REPORT

Hello Everyone, What a long, long day!! We had to be at the gym at 7am (left at 6:30) and we just got back (includes a dinner stop at Subway). And Kale and Victoria had to go straight to the evening's competitor's meeting (last until 9:30pm). They had one climb in the morning. The gym was closed from 2 to 3pm and they had another climb in the afternoon. The climbs were flash format, which we have never experienced. At 8am (after opening ceremony) there was a "forerunner" who demonstrated how to climb each climb. All the competitors could watch. Then they could watch all the other competitors climb until it was their turn! Kale flashed both of his climbs so he qualified for semi-finals tomorrow. Which is great but every other Male C and Male D (those categories shared the same routes) also flashed them (except for I am sorry to say, Dalton Fischer-Linnet from Seattle who fell and is devastated).

Kale is really excited to be competing again tomorrow, which will be an isolation format (I am not sure if it is only one climb or more - I should probably be at the meeting).

Victoria had a Killer day! She flashed her first climb and about 6 of her competitors took falls (Vic is climbing women's Open category against some of the world's top women climbers - the ones you see in the magazines). She was first to climb her second climb and she made it one hold from the end - it was spectacular. Before we left the gym one woman had flashed it and another had fallen less than halfway up. We are assuming Vic has made it to semis tomorrow but it won't be confirmed until later tonight because the climbing wont be over until after 9pm. Iso closes at 7:30 tomorrow morning and the day will not be as long as today. I think we will all sleep well tonight.

Good night, Katie

2008-11-20T17:39:00.000-08:00

2008-11-20T15:17:00.001-08:00

Haterade

2008-11-20T07:54:00.000-08:00

You know what? You guys all have a drinking problem. I can tell. And I know what you're drinking, too. It's haterade.

I've been noticing an increasing amount of hate amounting recently during team, and this is very unhealthy. You must embrace the chicken wing, not hate on it! I believe the chicken wing is the most helpful technique available to the intermediate climber. It builds sideways lock-off power and makes you look super cool. All the cool climbers are doing it. Who do you think you are, anyways, climbing with straight arms like some sort of scarecrow ape monster? If you knew what was good for you, you would stick those elbows out with pride! In fact, why don't you go buy the chicken wing elbow guard to appear even more legit among your fellow climbers. This will come in use when you develop the skills to use the elbow hook. This move is not only useful on almost every boulder problem or route, but also will impress your peers even more than the dreaded figure four!

And for another thing, dead hangs should not be done with straight arms at least one arm must be partially bent (bonus points for two). It makes you look sick hardcore and all the other gym rats will definitely be jealous. In fact, all exercises on the systems, campus board, and hangboard should never be done with arms straight. Using your skeletal system is a weakness! Rely instead on the beastly muscles that you will develop from constantly climbing with a chicken wing. In fact, let's face it: right now you're not a beast (comme moi), but by using my patented chicken wing climbing technique videos, you will be in a short matter of time. Other techniques cower in awe of the chicken wing! With my easy twelve step program (only $39.99!!!), you'll be on the way to chicken wing stardom in no time. Soon you will have the arms and shoulders of the hulk! Small holds become increasingly good as your elbows rise! Even Chris Sharma has endorsed this program,"Uhh...yeah. Sick." IS THAT NOT PROOF ENOUGH?! So, my dear friends, get off your asses and leave the comfort of climbing with your straight-armed, uptight friends. Come to the accepting and more hardcore camp of the chicken wing! Your success is waiting!

So, kids, remember not to hate on others...UNLESS THEY'RE WRONG! So let's all embrace the chicken wing and laugh at the fools who are ignorant of it.

Get Psyched

Captain Chicken Hawk (aka Henery Hawk)

captain chicken hawk

2008-11-19T20:40:00.000-08:00

2008-11-18T17:29:00.000-08:00

INTRODUCING SOME OF THE KITSAP VW CLIMBING TEAM:

Team Captain, Chicken Hawk

Short Bus

Pig Pen

Bean

....and this guy

2008-11-18T17:11:00.000-08:00

HARD WORK
There Are No Shortcuts
BY MARK TWIGHT

The following paragraph is excerpted from John Jesse's remarkable book titled “Wrestling Physical Conditioning Encyclopedia, published by The Athletic Press, Pasadena, CA, in 1974.

The writer would like to conclude with a personal message to wrestlers and coaches alike. It is taken from a talk given in 1964 to coaches at the National Collegiate Track Clinic and quoted many times by authorities throughout the world:

“There is no shortcut to strength development, as there is none for the development of skill, agility or endurance in an athlete. No amount of fancy gimmicks or equipment or adoption of alleged time-saving ‘fads' will substitute for a long term program of hard work, that is required to develop the quality of strength needed by an athlete for optimum performance in his specialty. Greater progress in track and field during the past 15 years has been the result of harder work by the athletes, not by resorting to shortcuts and less work.”

If the day's workout prescribes hard work (as opposed to recovery or "conversational" intensity) and you can read a magazine, or talk, or take a sip of your favorite sports drink, or recognize it's your phone that's ringing, or if you're not feeling dizzy, then you are not working hard. Avoiding hard work isn't wrong but it should not be confused with embracing effort, mouth wide open and giving it a bit of tongue ... "

Get psyched for some hard work on Wednesday.
Signed, your coach.

2008-11-03T10:46:00.000-08:00

To All Kitsap Team Members,

In an effort to update the Vertical World Team Website, Tyson would like you to answer the questions listed below. Please email your responses to Denise at: denijoe@comcast.net .

1. how much time do you spend on training for competition and how much time are you climbing for fun? or is this the same to you?
2. when does climbing get in the way of your daily life? or does daily life get in the way of your climbing?
3. what other types of sports do you participate in? and no, video games are not a sport.
4. how many chores do you do around the house to help pay for the ridiculous amount of climbing shoes you go through in a season?
5. when you don't feel like running drills, what is the best way to make them fun for yourself?

Probably the best way to do this is to copy and paste the questions with your answers onto an email to Denise.

Thanks, see you at practice.
-Your Coach

2008-10-30T20:15:00.001-07:00

Hey Team!

I will be in the gym Sunday afternoon. I think I am climbing tripod, (and hopefully rediscovering my endurance) but would love to hang out with all of you! Sorry about the Katanas.

V

Soup Night!

2008-10-28T21:24:00.000-07:00

Umm...so apparently there is some soup-related team even going on November 5. I don't really know any of the details at all, but Katie told me to put the flyer up on the blog. Bring soup...I guess...Or something like that. I don't really know.

Woohoo, soup!

Get Psyched

Trower

Eulogy for the Katanas

2008-10-27T19:38:00.000-07:00

in memory of the dear katanas:

your life was fulfilling,
full of features, backsteps and toeing

and though you have reached the finish
because the mold went squish
and the buckles went kaplish

the memories from the past
will not be the last
of any pair of katanas

because maddy knows
these shoes are the bomb.com

hmm...not the best poem i've ever written. but these great shoes deserve to be recognized for all of their glory and greatness...

RIP Katanas

2008-10-26T21:10:00.000-07:00

A few of you may already know this, but my beloved pair of katanas passed away about two-thirds through the blacklight comp. My life will never be the same without them (until I return them to REI and get a new pair). They served me well and had only endured one resole. They succumbed to weak straps and depression. I think they were just ready to let go. The mold had just become too much. Dear katanas, rest in peace at the REI bargain basement...

The Damage:

(Get Psyched for Mourning!)

Trower

blacklight comp

2008-10-26T09:21:00.001-07:00

It's the shizznizo-bam-snip-snip-snap!!!

that's how i feel about the comp.

even though it was really hot, and all of the first-time climbers had their parents hovering...

everyone did really well.

and now it's my time to gloat...i beat maddy!!!

[pumps fist in air] YES!

other climber highlights:

kale did a 470 after trying it a bajillion times.
maddy went back to a climb after failing the first couple times. and she got it. yay!
lucas gave me some beta. and i'm sure he did other things too, but i can't recall what those are at the moment.
emily had picked her 5 routes before the comp even started. this should definitely be applauded.
bean was sick strong! i watched him go from a 160-ish route to a 270-ish route. whoo hoo!!
and even though he isn't really on the team, bryce climbed pretty well too. he took a huge fall and landed 1/2 way on the mat, but then he got up. and that is important. getting up after falling. mentally or physically. yeah, that's right.

oh yeah. another big time accomplishment.

JOE CAME!

and even though he "caught" lucas and i "being rebellious" even though i "should know better" because i have been "on team for awhile" (he was jealous of my awesome white shirt!) and knowing him there will be something for us "to do on monday" i don't really care. see my good attitude towards punishment?

note: wearing a shirt more then the allotted time per week (1) [lucas], unless for highly scientific reasons [kale], should result in some sort of team punishment.

also, anyone who further mentions a glowing tissue will personally get a punch in the face by this author.

-sofia davis grellner-

The Epic Tale of the Wednesday Team

2008-10-22T21:57:00.000-07:00

Made mostly for the benefit of Joe.

So, team got off to a perfect start after I showed up about 13 minutes late (I took a nap and didn't wake up on time). Thankfully, our team is pretty awesome and took the initiative to start the warm up on their own. Yey! Speed would have gone well if I hadn't made the critical oversight of assuming that Emily can speed belay (she can't). There was so much slack in the rope that it started to wrap around Sorrel's leg...as I discovered after I was lowered (Me, Kale, and Bean were climbing at the same time). AAAH! Someone needs to teach her to belay faster. Sofi and I belayed bean for the rest of the speed. Projecting was pretty ridiculous. However, I *finally* stuck that one move and the ones after it. Sofi almost got the last move. Systems were both painful and awesome. And too easy. But still super cool.

Anway, that was practice.

EDGEWORKS SATURDAY! It will be good.

Get psyched!

Trower

2008-10-21T18:18:00.000-07:00

WEDNESDAY WORKOUT

As you should all know since I mentioned it on Monday, I will not be at practice tomorrow (Wed). So, Trower is running practice. Listen to her (you too Trower). Here is the workout. It is the same we did last Wed. Hopefully the new hang-board will be up so you can use that for the dead-hangs. If it is not up, use the Pusher systems blocks on the systems board like last week.

· Warm up full gym traverse there and back
· Speed climbing 2X2
· Bouldering projects (30 min)
· Finger workout on finger board or systems blocks
One handed dead hangs each hand x3
Two handed dead hangs x3
Closed crimp dead hangs x3
Sloper dead hangs x3

Then for Trower: campus set, same as Monday

Then:

S & E: 3 sets of sit-ups (20x), push-ups (10x), pull-ups max reps

Everyone else: circuit work

If there is time left, more bouldering.

Do It!

And, in the words of Trower...

...GET PSYCHED!...

...for this weekend's comp at Edgeworks.

I will be there.

ATTENTION!!!!

2008-10-17T16:32:00.000-07:00

What: Cougare Valley Elementary Climbing Night
When: tomorrow night
Time: 7-9pm
Why I'm Telling You This: The school needs volunteer belayers....i'm going to help, and i'm pretty sure kale and katie are too. so if you want to come help belay, that would be much appreciated. if there are too many belayers and not enough kids, we can just climb.
=]

the poet who wrote a poetical poem

2008-10-16T20:35:00.000-07:00

oh the woe
of the victims of joe

they try to be cool
but it's his rule

in the gym
where the air is chalky & grim

and the music rocks
your non-existent climber socks

this is how i feel.
my inner bard must be showing...
w/out the harp of course.
=]

ALWAYS CHECK YOUR KNOT!

2008-10-15T22:28:00.000-07:00

So this is what happens at VW Kitsap Team practice if you don't check your knot.

You do penance traversing with a sign on your back.

ALWAYS CHECK YOUR KNOT AND YOUR PARTNER'S KNOT!

Videos from Open Finals

2008-10-12T17:51:00.001-07:00

As promised, here are three videos from the open finals. Johnny G is a god!

V is the first to send women's problem two

Johnny G dances up men's problem two

Johnny G shows men's problem three who's boss (it's him).

Get Psyched!

Trower

The Circuit - An Epic Comp

2008-10-11T23:49:00.000-07:00

Oh, now I remember why I like competing. I'd forgot for a moment there. Damn, it's fun. Anyways, The Circuit comp was pretty awesome, as always. Their routes are very well set and the holds are new (and they have some nifty shapes). Congrats to Kale (4th), Emily (4th), Sofi (5th), and the rest of the team! I climbed fine, but totally mismanaged my time / came too late and didn't have time to warm up / some combination of the two. Don't do that. It's bad, kids. At least my category is so tiny that place even if I'm in last (3rd of 5, what an achievement, haha). Anywho, here are some pics (videos tomorrow) that should give people who weren't there (COUGHjoeCOUGH) an idea of what it was like / give a few laughs to those who were. :)

We rode the shortbus to the competition

Kale practically sits on a start hold

Lucas and the most awesome campus device ever

Syd pulls down hard on problem two

Syd on the way to sending problem three

Am I doing this right?

Get psyched!

Trower

uniforms

2008-10-07T20:28:00.001-07:00

i saw the uniforms...
if you want them to be a surprise, stop reading here because i'm going to explain them.
THEY LOOK THE SAME AS LAST YEAR.
except the logos are on the front, not the side.
and the sweatshirts are a zip-up hoodie.
and maddy and i got red tank tops. but v said the white ones are cooler...????
and the girl shirts are v-necks...(good or bad?)
so...yup.

2008-10-06T22:42:00.000-07:00

TEAM BAGS

Hey guys, Vic is bringing uniforms over tomorrow so we will have them on Wednesday. Also, if you still want to order team bags they are these:

ASANA DOUBLEup BAGS

Cost to the team is $18/ bag. You should get one, they seem pretty cool. I am.

2008-10-04T11:15:00.001-07:00

SATURDAY CLIMBING?

Hey guys, I know this is short notice but I was thinking about going into the gym on Saturday afternoon. And...I might actually climb. Anyone else going in? Ping me if you are.

-your coach

2008-10-03T18:21:00.000-07:00

A WORD FROM TYSON ABOUT THE CIRCUIT COMP

(without regard to capitalization or spacing it appears)

this is a long and important, one so please take the time to read it. as most of you know next weekend is the season opener for the ABS season. it is held at the circuit gym in portland. this comp is huge and i would love it if you all could attend. i know most of you are registered and already going, this is great. we have quite a few new people on team and i would love for next weekend to be a great introduction to what this whole deal can be about. so if you see some new parents and new kids please introduce yourselves and welcome them to the team.

adam, sydney (will be competing) and myself will be at this event so please come to us with any questions either before or after the event.if you are sending your child with someone else make sure you have a waiver filled out before hand. they will not allow you to climb without a waiver.also, there has been a glitch in the USAC/ABS registration and no one has gotten their membership number. dont worrry about it. you will get it soon.

womens in the morning and boys in the afternoon, so plan your trip accordingly. there is an open final which starts at 5pm. this is usually a big deal, so please if you are so inclined, stay and watch the show.i do not know if people are booking hotels for this, most people go down the day of but if someone wants to organize a team hotel, please do so asap.

here is the Competition schedule:
9am - doors open, women's registration begins
9:45am - rules for women
10am-1pm - women climb
11am - men's registration begins
12:45pm - rules for men
1pm-4pm - men climb
5pm - Finals begin! (on NEW WALL!)

here is the link to the comp, registration and gym: http://thecircuitgym.com/

directionshttp://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=6050+SW+Macadam+Ave,+Portland,+Oregon&sll=45.527757,-122.608452&sspn=0.124348,0.233459&ie=UTF8&ll=45.480626,-122.673061&spn=0.007778,0.014591&z=16&iwloc=addr&om=1

also, here is a letter from USAC/ABS:

Strength Builds ConfidenceNews for the ABS and SCS Climbing Series

October 3, 2008

Volume 3

Issue Number 2

In This Issue:

North American Continental Championships, Montreal , Canada, December 5-7,

2008 SCS Open / Citizens National Championships, January 24-25, 2009

ABS 10 National Championships, Boulder, CO, February 13-15, 2009

USA Climbing Partners

North American Continental ChampionshipsMontreal, Quebec, Canada, December 5-7, 2008 Registration begins October 1, 2008, closes October 24, 2008.

Information and invitations are posted on http://www.usaclimbing.org/

SCS Open/Citizens National Championships

The SCS Open/Citizens National Championships will be held in Salt Lake City, January 24-25, 2009. The championships will be hosted at Momentum Climbing Gym in Sandy, UT. http://www.momentumclimbing.com/

Membership Number Issues

Attention Current ABS/USAC Members: You may have noticed that there is no member number on your confirmation email/membership card. This issue is being worked on currently by our on-line membership registration management company. Please contact the USA Climbing Office by sending an email to info@usaclimbing.org requesting your membership number until we get the issue resolved.

Member Benefits

We are pleased to announce that Avis is now a supplier of rental car services for members of USA Climbing. For personal and/or business rentals when making a reservation, it is very important that you always ask for the best rate available by providing Avis Worldwide Discount number (AWD) T282800. USA Climbing members can enjoy special member rates, considerable value-added discounts and the latest in technology, products, and services to make your car rental experience better than ever.

ABS 10 National Championships

The American Bouldering Series National Championships will be held in Boulder, Colorado, February 13-15, 2009 at The Spot Bouldering Gym for the Youth and Open categories. The Citizens category will be a held at the Boulder Rock Club. . Membership Registration is Open!

USA Climbing Membership registration is now open for the 2008-2009 Climbing Season. Registration is required in order to be eligible to compete at regional, divisional and national USA Climbing events and includes access to the American Bouldering Series 10 and 2008/2009 Sport Climbing Series.

Members receive a discount to Urban Climber Magazine.

thanks for everything, tyson

Holy shit...... from climbing.com

2008-09-30T15:45:00.000-07:00

Pearson Claims E12 on English Slab

By Dougald MacDonald / The Mountain World

Enlarge

James Pearson rehearsing slab moves that may be as hard as 5.14 on his new route The Walk of Life on the North Devon coast in England. The route is the first in the world to be given the E12 grade. Courtesy of Tnf.typepad.com.

The hardest traditional route in the world may be a slab climb. The young English climber James Pearson has climbed The Walk of Life (E12 7a) on a steep slab on the North Devon coast in southwest England. At this grade, the route must include hard 5.14 climbing with death-fall potential.

According to a report at Climbmagazine.com in the U.K., Pearson’s new route begins with nearly 50 feet of very serious climbing above the boulders at the base of Dyer’s Lookout—the “most mentally difficult and terrifying piece of climbing he has done.”

After placing some small gear, Pearson continued on an existing route, Dyer Straits (E8 6b), established by Ian Vickers with preplaced pitons and other gear. Pearson removed all of the pitons and placed gear on the lead for the 90-foot-plus upper wall. During an earlier attempt, he fell off this upper section as rain began to fall and took a 50-footer onto a Wild Country Zero #3, a tiny microcam. Dave Brown, who was filming Pearson for the upcoming film "Committed, Vol. 2," said, "I stripped the route for him that day, and the microcam that held the fall was in a shocking placement, and it was mangled and bent." On the successful lead, rain fell again but Pearson waited out the brief shower at a decent rest on the upper wall, and then continued when the rain had passed.

Enlarge

Pearson midway on The Walk of Life. Courtesy of Hotaches.blogspotcom, reproduced with permission.

Enlarge

Pearson working the route above the waves on the 45-meter face of Dyer's Lookout. Courtesy of Hotaches.blogspotcom, reproduced with permission.

“The Walk of Life pushed me further and made me dig deeper than any other route I’ve climbed before,” Pearson told Climb magazine. “The route is…far harder than any other route I’ve tried.”

Pearson is no stranger to hard and dangerous routes. He has repeated many serious headpoints in Britain and also established The Promise (E10 7a) and The Groove (E10 7b). He was the first person to flash a V13 boulder problem, a feat he has repeated a couple of times since.

No climb in the world has previously been graded E12. Dave MacLeod’s Rhapsody (E11 7a) in Scotland was the first E11, and has been repeated twice. Last summer MacLeod established a new route, the Echo Wall, on Ben Nevis in Scotland, and said it was harder and scarier than Rhapsody; however, MacLeod did not grade the route.

James Pearson. Courtesy of Tnf.typepad.com.

Adding to the difficulties of Pearson’s new route is the nature of the rock, a type known as culm that’s unique to North Devon sea cliffs. It looks somewhat like sandstone, and can be loose and friable. The UKClimbing.com database for Dyer’s Lookout summarizes, “Possibly not going to be there long, so climb it while you can. It may be a good idea to take some pegs with you. And maybe a hammer. Don't bang too hard though.”

Date of Ascent: September 29, 2008

Let's Face It.

2008-09-29T22:28:00.000-07:00

We all got here on the same bus.

2008-09-29T21:02:00.000-07:00

Some 4x4 action at practice

Kale

Trower

Weaksauce

2008-09-25T23:12:00.000-07:00

...or, alternately, my performance at the Summer Slam
Anyway, it was a great comp despite my ridiculous amounts of suckage. There were a lot of people there and the vibe was very positive. The usual VW supsects were there (except for us, haha) along with a bunch of other random climbers. This was Lucas's first comp ever (!) and a sweet first comp at that. The bouldering edged on lame, although the roped routes were pretty sweet.

Hopefully the Circuit will go better for me...

Get Psyched

Trower

2008-09-25T21:33:00.000-07:00

VERTICAL WORLD YOUTH CLIMBING NEWS

This is the first installment of the Vertical World Youth Climbing newsletter. You will be receiving monthly updates on what the Climbing Team has been up to, what we will be doing, the latest competition standings, and our upcoming events.

This newsletter will also have news and updates on all our Youth Climbing Programs. Vertical World offers a wide variety of climbing programs for all ages and abilities. You may have seen us in the gym or out at the crags, but either way, please know we are out there spreading the word about climbing and competition in the community. We are growing the next generation of hardcore and committed climbers, indoors and out. This newsletter is for you, and it's from us.

Coach Tyson

About The Team
The team competes throughout the country in the USA Climbing/ABS series of competitive indoor rock climbing competitions. Over the past 6 years the Vertical World Climbing Team has developed a handful of National Champions, a World Championship Podium, and around 30 Team Members named to the USA National Climbing Team in the discipline of either Sport, Bouldering or Speed Climbing. The team is proud to have also placed 1st, 2nd or 3rd in the past 5 years in the National Team Competition.
Tyson Schoene has three assistant coaches on the team. Sydney McNair coaches out of the Everett gym, Joe Holmes out of the Kitsap gym, and Adam Brossard out of Redmond. Without their help, the team would not be what it is today.
The team trains 5 days a week from September through July for competitions ranging from local events to national events. Those that finish well enough to make the USA National Team will then move on to compete at the Junior World Championships against the top climbers from other countries in their age categories.

Results from past years:

* 2008 First Place National Bouldering Championships

* 2007 Second Place National Sport Climbing Championships

* 2006 First Place National Sport Climbing Championships

comp tomorrow

2008-09-24T20:00:00.000-07:00

ok, well here is what i know about the seattle summer slammo thingy.
unless someone suddenly is able to give me a ride, i can't go.
possible drivers:
maddy (but unless you get over your fear of ferries...this is a no)
my mom (no)
joe (psshh...yeah right. =])
katie (kale said that is also a no)
lucas(i'm guessing that you are a no too, seeing that you needed a ride)
hmm...
alrighty then.
i guess the comp will have to leave w/out the awesome bremerton team.

well...this blog thing is cool.
oh, and i can climb on sunday.
so call me.
or facebook me.
(by the way, that is such a stalker site!)
short bus
=]

ABS SCHEDULE

2008-09-23T21:03:00.000-07:00

Here is the season's schedule. http://usaclimbing.net/regional/regional_news.cfm?region=pnw

10/11/08
Local: Circuit - Portland, OR

10/25/08
Local: Edgeworks - Tacoma, WA

11/08/08
Local: ClubSport - Tigard, OR

11/15/08
Local: Rogue - Medford, OR
coming soon

11/15/08
Local: Cassel Rock - Anchorage, AK
coming soon

11/29/08
Local: Stoneworks - Beaverton, OR

12/06/08
Local: Alaska Rock - Anchorage, AK

12/13/08
Local: Vertical World - Redmond, WA

12/13/08
Local: Inclimb - Bend, OR
coming soon

01/17-18/09
Regional: Circuit - Portland, OR

Also, the sign up for ABS/SCS is out. so please get registered asap.
Here are the links:
https://thriva.activenetwork.com/Reg4/(S(qdthel55fhrhrc4533rat055))/Form.aspx?regkey=RpYOYPxE378wNjTYCkFkMw%3d%3d

So here are a couple key points you need to remember
1) make sure you register under our team name, vertical world climbing team.
2) also make sure you register for the pacnw regional.
If you have questions please get back to me.

Tyson and I would love for everyone possible to attend the first event on October 11th at the Circuit Gym in Portland. This is a huge event and it is really fun. If you cannot make it please let me know. I think most of you should make it to the Edgeworks comp on october 25th. This way you get your 2 out of the way and automatically qualify for the regional to be held on jan 17th in Portland. The Clubsport event is up to you, November 8th in Tigard, Oregon. It should be fun. Tyson will not be there as he is getting married that day. The Medford comp is really far away, enough said. So is the Alaska one. The Stoneworks comp in Beaverton is Thanksgiving weekend. You can go if you want. Please let me know if you are going. The next, Alaska one...well, it's in Alaska. The Vertical World Redmond comp is on December 13th. I would love for everyone to be there for that one too. Tyson is also planning on having the team picture taken at this event, so please show up. Please keep me posted on the comps that you and your family are planning on attending.

First ABS Comp at the Circuit

2008-09-23T17:57:00.000-07:00

Ok, I'm not gonna lie. I'm mostly posting just for the novelty of it. I don't really have anything that important to say.

That aside, remember to sign up for the first ABS comp of the year at The Circuit (register before Oct. fifth for a comp shirt)! Chicks are 10am - 1pm and dudes are 1pm - 4pm. Sign up here and find the waiver here. They have a new roof and, as always, the totally awesome hanging boulder. Be there!

Also, it kind of sucks being the only team member in the gym on non-team days. We should somehow arrange something in some way that some people can post some days that the would be in the gym sometime climbing something (that sentence was entirely intentional). Anywho, when do you guys come in during the week? Bouldering the same crap over and over gets boring.

Get psyched!

Trower

Seattle VW Back to School Slam

2008-09-22T22:52:00.000-07:00

Hey all, I know it's a school night and all but this Thursday is the Back to School Slam at the Seattle Vertical World.

This is a for fun competition and barbecue on thursday night september 25th.

There are plenty of categories and prizes. This is a ropes and bouldering comp.

There is a barbecue and beer for the parents.

This is a great opportunity to get the competition season underway in a non-stress have fun with the team type of way. It will also give the perfect opportunity for the new team members to meet everyone and get psyched for the season.

The comp is at the seattle gym and starts at 6pm. Call the seattle gym 206.283.4497 to register. the cost is $25. I would love it if all team members made it to this if possible. Questions, please talk to me.

Team Uniforms

2008-09-22T22:38:00.000-07:00

Hey everyone, team uniform time is upon us. I need to get everyone's sizes.

We are going simple this year, with a sleevless T and a regular T and a long sleeve T, and a hooded sweatshirt. We are also getting bags made by asana with our logo on it. The only thing that is required is a team shirt and sweatshirt, the rest is optional. As soon as Tyson gets them to me I will have prices for you asap. but like usual, its pretty cheap.

Also, if parents want team shirts, Tyson will order them with the kids order. please get me your adult size or female size. Tyson is limiting parents to t-shirts or long sleeve shirts. let me know.

Signed, Your Coach.

2008-09-22T18:46:00.000-07:00

First Post

OK all you Kitsap Vertical World Climbing Team Members, this is your blog to post anything you want about climbing, the team, comps, workouts, etc. Basically, if it has to do with climbing, this is the place to blog about it. We will also use this blog to post workouts, comp schedules, etc.

Remember, blog smarter, not harder.